Studio Light
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500W LED Video Light Panel Studio Lighting CRI 98Main Parameter: 1. Input voltage / frequency: AC100-240V, 50 / 60Hz; 2. Power supply power: 450W; 3. Rated power: 300W; 4. LED light source: equipped with high brightness RGB5053 three-in-one...read more
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STUDIO 300W COB Profile With ZoomMain Parameter: 1. Input voltage / frequency: AC100-240V, 50 / 60Hz; 2. Power supply power: 300W/400W; 3. Rated power: 250W/350W; 4. Light source: integrated 200W/COB 300W; 5. Light source life:...read more
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750W Profile Light For Studio IP20Main Parameters Voltage: AC220V ± 5% Power: 850W Light source: HPL 750W halogen bulb Optical lens: high linearity aspheric glass lens Dimming: 0-100% Beam angle: 19/26/36/50 ° optional Control...read more
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400W COB LED Profile Lighting For Studio400W COB LED Profile Lighting Main Parameter: 1. Input voltage / frequency: AC100-240V, 50 / 60Hz; 2. Power supply power: 400W/500W; 3. Rated power: 350W/450W; 4. Bead power: 300W/400W; 5. Color...read more
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300W LED Fresnel Light For StudioMain Parameter: 1. Input voltage / frequency: AC100-240V, 50 / 60Hz; 2. Power supply power: 350W; 3. Rated power consumption: 300W; 4. Light source: 300W, West Railway City, Japan; 5. Light source...read more
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300W LED Profile Spot Light With ZoomMain Parameter: Product name: 300W LED Profile Spot Light Source: 300W warm white/cool white COB LEDs Life span: 50000H CT: 3200K/5600K/RGBW optional Ra≥97 Light angle: 15°-55° Zoom method: Manual...read more
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Waterproof 200W LED Profile IP65Main Parameter 1. Input voltage / frequency: AC100-240V, 50 / 60Hz; 2. Power supply power: 300W; 3. Rated power: 220W; 4. Light source: LED 200W; 5. Light source life: 50,000 hours; 6. Color...read more
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200W LED Profile Studio Light IP20Main Parameter: 1. Input voltage / frequency: AC100-240V, 50 / 60HZ; 2. Power power: 250W; 3. Rated power: 200W; 4. Light source: LED 200W color temperature: LED3200K / 5600K; 5. Channel mode:...read more
LED studio lighting, LED profile, LED fresnel, LED panel
Studio lighting is an essential addition to most photographers' arsenal. It allows us to create natural lighting effects in a variety of situations, and is far more controllable than a flashgun.
And, with so many options available nowadays, it doesn't have to be confined to a studio. There are portable options available too! But to make sure you buy the right kit for your requirements, you need to know about the different options. In this article, we'll look at what does what, and where you should invest your money. Lights can be grouped into two main groups - strobe lighting and continuous lighting. Strobe lighting tends to be the most popular, so let's look at that first.
Strobe Lighting
This type of lighting is more commonly known as flash lighting, as the light will ‘flash' each time the camera is fired, and then recycle its power. Within the remit of strobe lighting, there are several variants. The most popular, and budget friendly, are monobloc lights. These run off a power cable so you'll need electricity! Most manufacturers sell their studio flash heads as part of a kit, which is far more cost effective. I recommend flash lighting for beginners over continuous lighting, as it's easier to control the colour casts (and I prefer the finished product). Flash head power is measured in joules, and lights with a rating of around 400/500 joules will provide more than enough power to cover most rooms (unless you're working in a warehouse!). Kits come with stands, reflectors and accessories (more on accessories in a minute).
Strobe lights are also available in the form of portable kits, or with power packs. Portable kits are usually lightweight heads with a portable battery, which allows them to be used on location. Power packs allow for use of multiple lights, and offer a far higher joules capacity. But these are extremely expensive for those starting out, and are best suited to pros that need a very high amount of power.
Continuous Lighting
Continuous lighting is light that's on all the time, so it doesn't flash like strobe lighting. There's a huge discrepancy pricewise when it comes to different types of continuous lighting. A cheap budget option for those starting out in photography is tungsten lighting, with kits starting from around $200. The downside of tungsten lighting is that you have little control over the power of the lights. In addition, care needs to be taken to ensure that you set your DSLR on an appropriate setting for tungsten light. As a cheap starting point, they're a great idea, but you're likely to outgrow them quite quickly.
Accessories
Most lighting kits come with some accessories, but there are a huge variety available. You'll always get a standard reflector with your lights by the way but let's have a look at the most common.
Softboxes, Octas & Rotaluxes
Softboxes (square), Octas (octagonal) and Rotaluxes (rectangular) are probably the most useful accessories you can invest in. They soften the light and even it out, providing a beautiful light to illuminate your subject. They narrow down to a lighting attachment at the back and are lined in silver, with a white see-through cover that attaches over the front to provide diffusion.
Umbrellas
White shoot through umbrellas are probably the most common of brollies. Shoot through refers to the fact that they are made of a similar white diffused material as softboxes. Light passes through them and is softened. You can also get black brollies with a variety of different colour linings, which allow you to throw light back onto the subject.
Barn Doors
Barn doors are small rectangular ‘doors' that clip onto the side of your reflector, and allow for very precise directional lighting. They are particularly useful for lighting a background evenly.
Snoots
Snoots are long cones in solid black, which narrow to a small hole at the front. They are often used for highlighting hair, due to the directional small light they provide.
Honeycomb Grids
So called because they look like a piece of honeycomb, these slot onto the front of reflectors. Again, they're most commonly used as a hair light. Do take care if using them near skin - get too close and you'll get the grid effect showing up on the skin!
Beauty Dishes
Beauty dishes are idea for head and shoulders shots, a beauty dish produces a light that's somewhere in hardness between a softbox and an umbrella. This is a very flattering light that drops off naturally to the sides.
Portable Reflectors
Not an accessory as such, but still an essential piece of kit for studio lighting. Reflectors can be handheld or clamped to a stand to fill in shadows, or lift light onto subjects' faces. If you're only going to invest in one reflector, a sunfire one is by far the most useful. It's a combination of silver and gold stripes and suits nearly all skin tones.
An Introduction to Studio Light
When it comes to photography lighting, the move from natural light to studio flash is a definite step-up, but there's no disputing the extra creative freedom it allows.
Understanding the basics of studio flash lighting will help ensure a smooth transition; the same way understanding fundamentals like aperture, shutter speed and exposure will help you switch from Auto to Manual Mode.
This includes understanding the difference between continuous light and flash; different power systems like monobloc lights or power packs; flash power and how to adjust it; and how flashes are triggered.
Types of Studio Light




Speedlites
For many, speedlites provide an introduction to using flash because they're easy to use to and relatively inexpensive. They can be used on or off-camera, but because they aren't as easily modified as studio lights, they don't offer the same level of control or creativity. They also don't provide the same sort of power as studio lights. However, they do offer a fairly fast flash duration, which means they can be great for freezing motion. In our Advertising, Product and Still Life course, you'll see how I use speedlites to capture some amazing product images, which goes to show that if you understand light, you can use these handy little lights to great effect.
Studio lights
Also referred to as strobe lighting, studio lights offer the most versatility when it comes to photography. Although they're more expensive than speedlites, studio lights offer much more versatility and control. They have a far greater power output than speedlites and some brands even allow you to control the temperature of the lights. They're also available with a range of modifiers; from simple umbrellas to more professional-level fresnels.
Continuous light
Continuous lights offer a continuous light source, unlike studio lights, which provide a flash to illuminate the subject. Although they're commonly used for many genres of photography, I personally don't find continuous light nearly as precise or versatile as studio lights. I'll discuss the reasons for this next.
Continuous light vs flash
A common question I get asked is "Why do studio photographers choose to use flash instead of using continuous light?” There are a number of reasons for this, which you'll also see in the video.
Power is the main reason professional photographers generally favour flash. You can get an incredible amount of extra power from a flash than what you'd generally get from a continuous light.
That power, which we see in the form of a bright flash, only lasts for a very brief instance, but because we're only taking a still photo we usually want more light because it allows us to get more depth of field, use different modifiers etc. This brief flash also allows us to freeze motion. When using continuous light, you're dependant on the shutter speed to freeze flash.
Another disadvantage of using continuous light for studio photographers is that you really need to work in the dark, which means you have to have the ability to darken your studio. You can't take pictures with continuous light if you have other forms of ambient light pollution like daylight coming through your windows or your existing lights in the building. So, you need to cut all of that out to make any form of continuous lighting effective.
Studio Light of Power and joules
Not all studio lights were made equal, and one of the key things to consider is power.
Joules vs watts
The term joules refers to an amount of energy whereas watts refer to a unit of power. One joule is equivalent to one watt-second. In this instance, the term joules will be used to refer to the power output of a light.
I can have that all come out of one flash if I want or I can distribute three different lights across three different channels asymmetrically.
Asymmetrically means I can split that power of 3200 joules up into any ratio I like. I can have 100 joules on one lamp, 100 on another and then 3000 on the third lamp if I want. I can mix it and blend it around. If you've got a symmetrical pack you may find you can only split it equally, so for example 1000, 1000, 1000.
You'll generally find the power rating for a light written somewhere on the lamp head. But what does 800 joules, for example, actually mean? I often get asked whether to go for an 800-joule, 400-joule or 1200-joule… Everyone seems to think there's this massive, massive difference between them but actually, there isn't that much between them.
It's exactly the same as the change in ratio of stops of ISO for example. So, if we used an 800-dual lamp at f11 then we would need to shoot a 400-dual lamp at f8 to get the same exposure, or increase the ISO from 100 to 200.
Joules on lamp heads or power packs are basically the same in f-stops, so compared to a 400-joule lamp, an 800-joule is one stop more powerful, a 1600-joule lamp is another stop more powerful and a 3200-joule pack is another stop powerful. You just need to think about it in f-stops.
You'll find a complete detailed explanation of flash power in our class Understanding flash power, where I also clearly demonstrate the relationship between f-stops and studio light power.

I would argue this lighting is the most important aspect of photography. If a client can't see what is in their photo then it doesn't matter how good the composition is, or how sharp the photo is, they will reject your work.
You don't need the newest camera model available to get fantastic photos, but you do need to understand what your camera's limitations are so that you can work around them. If your older model camera doesn't handle low light situations well, then schedule your photo sessions during bright daylight hours.
Even photos taken during daylight hours can turn out poorly if you're not using the right camera settings. What newer photographers sometimes call poor light is actually problems with exposure. Take the time to learn how ISO, shutter speed and aperture work together to get you properly exposed photos.
Once you master exposure settings, study how the available light is interacting with your subject. Are you getting soft shadows around your client's eyes? Are there bright patches of hard light only hitting certain parts of your subject's face?
Here you need to figure out where your light is coming from and move your client around accordingly.
The best natural light, hands down, is the soft light produced during golden hour! Golden hour occurs when the sun is rising or setting. Often the light has a slight orange, pink or golden yellow tinge, which is very flattering to your subjects.
Golden hour light is also diffused which lights your client's face much better than the directional light of the rest of the day. If clients can't meet you during golden hour, then the next best thing is to choose a location with shade. During golden hour the sun is at a low angle giving you more freedom of where to shoot outdoors.
You can shoot in an open field, or by a lake side. When it comes to the best artificial hard light for taking photos, there is no one answer. Some argue that a basic studio lighting setup includes three lights. These three lights include a key light, a fill light, and a backlight, yet this depends entirely on your preference!

What Are The Different Light Techniques?
Now that you know what different lights do and what to look for in lighting kits, we can talk about how to place them to achieve certain looks. Some of these lights techniques are dramatic and others soft. There are no rules stating which situations you can or can't use them in, however certain industries use certain lights techniques more than others.lighting short lighting
Split Light: Place your light 90 degrees to your subject's face for lighting setups with this light. You will end up with one side of the face lit up and the other in dark shadow. The shadow line will fall vertically down your subject's face, creating a very dramatic portrait.
Rembrandt Lighting: For these lighting setups, place your subject slightly more than 90 degrees away from the light sources. Your light sources will also be slightly the head height of your subject. One side of the face will still be in shadow but one one triangle of light should fall on the cheek, no wider than the eye and not longer than the nose. The soft shadows cast by this type of light helps round faces look slimmer. This light technique is named after the painter Rembrandt because he used this type of light on many of his subjects.
Loop Lighting: Place your light sources at a 30-45 degree angle from the back of your subject. A reflector is placed on the opposite side of the subject facing the light to bounce the light back onto your subject's face. When the light is placed slightly higher than eye level on the opposite side, it gives a slight contouring look to your subject's face. This type of light is very flattering on most people so it tends to be used a lot in portrait work.
Butterfly Lighting: Place your light directly behind and above your camera, shining directly on your subject facing the camera head on. This light casts a butterfly wing shaped shadow side directly beneath the subjects nose. When the light is placed high enough using lighting stands, you may get shadow cast off the cheeks of subjects with prominent cheekbones .
Broad / Short lighting: This isn't exactly a technique, as is more or less used to describe how much of the face is in the light. When your subject's face is turned slightly in one direction, your light is broad if it casts the side of the face closest to the camera in light. Alternatively, if the side of the face closest to the camera is partially in shadow, your light is classified as short.
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FAQ
Q: What are the two types of studio lighting?
Q: What is the difference between natural light and studio light?
Q: What is the benefit of studio light?
In conclusion, investing in professional lighting equipment is essential if you want to take your photography to the next level. It gives you consistency, creative freedom, enhances image quality, saves time, and gives your photos a professional look.
Q: What is a studio light?
Q: What is studio light called?
Q: What is the most common type of studio light?
Q: What kind of lights are studio lights?
Q: What light is best for a studio?
Q: How bright should a studio light be?
Q: Why are studio lights so hot?
Q: Where should studio lights be placed?
Set your initial light to one side of your camera, at a distance of 0 to 45 degrees from your subject. This is the primary light source. Place the second light on the same axis as your camera. It will serve as a fill light, filling in the shadows.
Q: Where do you put studio lights?
Q: How long do studio lights last?
Q: What are the big studio lights called?
Q: What is the difference between contour light and studio light?
Q: What are studio lights made of?
Q: How many studio lights do I need?
Q: How do I set up studio lighting?
Q: How many watts is a studio light?
Q: How many lumens do I need for studio lighting?
We're well-known as one of the leading studio light manufacturers and suppliers in China. If you're going to buy customized studio light with competitive price, welcome to get pricelist and free sample from our factory. Also, OEM&ODM service is available.
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